International Sauvignon Blanc day falls on the first Friday of May (apparently) and it’s a nice excuse to plough on through those bottles you’ve already bought, or look back on a varietal you might have tired of, or perhaps misunderstood in the past. If you’ve somehow yet to experience the delights of this most globe-trotting of grapes, let Private Customer Account Manager Aiden Schwarzer be your guide.
Sauvignon Blanc (So-veen-yon Blong) – or Sauvignon but never *ever* Savvy B, is a noble grape variety and perhaps the world’s most widely planted. It has an uncanny knack of producing distinctive and recognisable traits wherever it’s grown, often leading with intense ‘green’, ‘phenolic’ aromas of nettle, tomato leaf, capsicum and gooseberry, but it’s also very capable of developing rich tropical fruit aromas and flavours too. In terms of structure, Sauvignon naturally produces wines with high levels of acidity, which is ideal for crisp, lively styles, as well as sparkling expressions and it also lends energy to late harvest sweeties.
Tanners Sauvignon, Pays d'Oc from the south of France, was always amongst our best-sellers when I started here in the early 2000s and it continues to keep and win fans. It covers lots of bases, being fresh and lively with those lush herby notes and the generous fruit that you expect of the warm Languedoc. It’s an Old World wine with New World style.
The reliability of Sauvignon is key to its popularity and global reach. Cloudy Bay celebrates its 40th year in 2025 and is rightly cited as being responsible for establishing an explosively herbaceous, fruity, and tantalising style for which Marlborough became famous, giving rise to a surge of winemaking interest in New Zealand and generating a greater interest in Sauvignon more globally.
Churton is a superb organic producer with links to Shropshire, they craft very fine Sauvignon (and Pinot Noir) which offers up the generosity and richness of Marlborough but with the textural and structural qualities you would expect to find in Sancerre. These are hugely enjoyable for novices, but they also provide great complexity for those who are looking for more in their wines.
One could argue that Marlborough is now the home of Sauvignon, but classicists would steer you to France’s Loire Valley and the villages of Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire. Here we find the purest expressions of Sauvignon, where ripeness isn’t necessarily expressed by bombastic fruit but more of a textural sensation, blending with an innate mineral quality borne out of pebbly, limestone and clay soils rich in flint and ancient fossils. This more ‘savoury’ style of Sauvignon is (or was) the benchmark and it provides an excellent starting point and reference point for comparing Old and New World styles.
Firmin Dezat is going places, and this will be a domain to keep an eye on. Originally part of his grandfather, André Dezat’s great estate, the vineyard was divided a couple of years ago between Firmin and his cousins. There is serious know-how here and Firmin is employing organic methods as he takes a long-term view. His Sancerre follows in the footsteps of his father and grandfather, being wonderfully aromatic and refined, and the precision and detailing will just keep dialling up.
For Sancerre lovers looking for something more wallet-friendly, don’t overlook the excellent Touraine Sauvignon from Domaine Beausejour. It’s been a hit since it came on to the list, and while the larger appellation of Touraine is home to some fairly neutral, ordinary examples, this is quite the opposite.
Bordeaux too is a centre for Sauvignon although here it is often accompanied by a dash (or more) of Semillon or Sauvignon Gris, which bring in more texture, fatness and weight. The grander examples also tend to see more oak contact, something that has come in and out of fashion over the years but is certainly en vogue right now – and this shows in examples from all over the world. Oak can have a softening affect on the natural acids, helping a wine to ‘fill out’ and add a silkiness to the texture and a creaminess to flavour – be it vanilla, coffee, toast, or coconut. When it works and blends with lush fruit, the results can be exquisite. To taste the complexities, I recommend trying Sancerre, Grand Chemarin, Jean-Max Roger or Churton 'Best End' Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough.
There are all sorts of changes afoot in Bordeaux and the interest in dry white wines has really exploded in recent years, with many of the top properties now producing a showpiece “Bordeaux Sec” (with prices to match). There is serious value to be found at the more modest end and there are moves afoot to bring in new appellations to highlight regional differences and to further improve quality and control. It’s an exciting time for White Bordeaux!
Château Tour de Mirambeau epitomises modern White Bordeaux, offering a wonderfully pure expression with fruit very much to the fore, especially lemon and grapefruit citrus, as well as notes of white fruits and elderflower. There is distinct ripeness which aids a fuller mouthfeel, but it remains deliciously fresh and precise.
Moving up a touch, Château Doisy-Daëne played a leading role in the development and growth of dry white Bordeaux and it continues to be a reference point for quality and value. Full-bodied but never heavy, the wine is fermented in barrel which assists in developing a gorgeous texture and complements a noteworthy perfume of fuzzy nectarine skins and exotic fruits. It drinks well on release and ages nicely in the cellar too.
The sweet end of Bordeaux, Sauternes and Barsac, put out some of the greatest value wines to be found anywhere. These are lush, heady, richly fruity, exotic and complex, combining sweetness with great freshness and they age beautifully. The work involved in producing these wines is mind-boggling and yet the yields are meagre. Production has always been limited and with sweeter wines being less fashionable, many here are also now adjusting their focus to the drier side of Sauvignon (and Semillon). It would be a tragedy for the sweeties to die out, so do take a look if you’re ever after a treat!
Tanners Sauternes is a great place to start. We keep the source mysterious for each release, but rest assured it is always of great pedigree. This is a nicely balanced sweet wine that shows lightly spiced, honeyed, creamy yellow and white fruits and it makes the perfect partner to pâté and terrine, blue cheese and fruit-based desserts.
Linking Bordeaux back to the New World, the climate of Margaret River in Western Australia emerged as a brilliant spot for look-a-likes, with the same principal grape varietals all performing magnificently. The whites were, and are, based on Sauvignon and Semillon and while Chardonnay is quickly staking a claim here, the blended whites of Margaret River have rather built a reputation, almost a brand in their own right.
Linking Bordeaux back to the New World, the climate of Margaret River in Western Australia emerged as a brilliant spot for look-a-likes, with the same principal grape varietals all performing magnificently. The whites were, and are, based on Sauvignon and Semillon and while Chardonnay is quickly staking a claim here, the blended whites of Margaret River have rather built a reputation, almost a brand in their own right.
Rocky Road is the entry-level range from McHenry Hohnen – David Hohnen founded Cape Mentelle and was also part of the team that launched Cloudy Bay, so he knows Sauvignon Blanc! The winemaking here is now under the stewardship of the dynamic Jacapo ‘Japo’ Dalli Cani, an Italian born in Soave who has roamed the winemaking world and he has some brilliant ideas. Rocky Road offers up a heady nose of tropical fruits, zesty lime, honey and a touch of toast. The palate is nicely concentrated and textured, full of flavour and energy. It’s a seriously good wine that doesn’t take itself too seriously and definitely worth adding to your collection and tasting.
We really should take in South Africa on our tour. We often talk of the Cape as being a combination of Old World and New World. Ripeness is a given for most areas, but the coastal regions and elevated valleys provide cooler-climate zones and the opportunity for stunningly bright white wines. Cape Elevation’s ‘Contour Path’ is a project that looks to source and protect higher altitude vineyards in the cool Elgin Valley – a place where growers have been turning to apples and pears for cider production (!). This is a really elegant New World example of Sauvignon, attractively tropical but it shows true restraint and often brings me back to Sancerre. Superb value too.
Chile has incredible potential for super fine Sauvignon and they’re doing a great job at the more modest end too. There is so much good land and the right conditions in this narrow country: elevation, especially in the foothills of the Andes; the Pacific Ocean has a lengthy reach with its cooling fogs and breezes; the north might be dessert-like but it has very cool nights; and the south is wild! Sunlight is no problem, but climate change is making life tougher and water is an ever more precious resource. Take a look at the range from Cucao (Sutil Family Wines), their Reserva Especial Sauvignon shows the more herbaceous side of the variety, much like we find in Chilean reds; with tropical pineapple, floral notes and a crisp ‘green’ snap, not to mention a little mineral bite. Lots to like!
Let’s call the above the usual suspects, but remember Sauvignon is successful pretty much everywhere, so here are a few from less obvious sources, but no less good expressions.
Paparuda is an incredibly successful Romanian project that everyone must have heard of! They produce a range of international varietals, some indigenous too, and they do them all very well. Their Estate Selection Sauvignon Blanc is a punchy, juicy, fresh and tropical style that feels pretty New World. Nothing complicated but all very correct, nicely ripe and offers excellent value for money.
Fernanda Cappello Sauvignon comes from Friuli-Grave in Italy’s north east, almost lunar in appearance in places, with stony, alluvial soils that seem to bring out intense mineral qualities in the wines. The north is cooler and wetter, the south tends to be warmer and drier but the Adriatic has a mediating effect. This is a surprisingly concentrated and intense example of Sauvignon, there is a distinct mineral tone and a combination of white peach, passion fruit, capsicum and a wealth of herb and floral notes. Fascinating stuff!
Ojos del Sur Sauvignon is a relatively new addition to our list from Bodega Malma, who are based in Neuquén in Patagonia, in the very south (39°S) of Argentina. It’s early days for commercial winemaking here, but there are some eye-catching efforts and this Sauvignon shows ample weight and some oomph, leading with a mix of citrus, showing layers of juicy tropical fruits and lots of those greener, herbaceous qualities.
Food Matching
Sauvignon is a food-friendly style but tends to be best suited to lighter dishes. I usually take the route of lean and refreshing styles are best with salads, light bites, seafood – especially deep-friend nibbles! In this respect, think of Sauvignon as a seasoning (like a squeeze of lemon or lime) and a palate cleanser and you won’t go too far wrong.
More exotic styles, like Marlborough Sauvignon, have ripe fruit and more exotic herby notes which can take on more exotic flavours – Thai prawns, green lip mussels, Pad Thai should give you the idea.
The bigger examples, the richer and/or those with some oak in the make-up and those with more Semillon in the blend are all capable of taking on bigger dishes – in much the way as Chardonnay. In terms of food pairings, that means richer seafood, moving into white meats like chicken and pork, creamier and cheesier sauces are ideal matches.
The greener elements of Sauvignon make it a good foil for green vegetables, salads, herbs while the varietal’s high acid and overall intensity is a good match for tomatoes. In this respect, Sauvignon can be ideal with pesto and that opens the doors to a huge array of flavours.
In the Loire, Sauvignon is the classic partner to goat’s cheese!
I have one warning with Sauvignon and that is a consequence of its exuberant and precocious attributes. It’s a vigorous varietal so it can crop heavily and it can develop intense aromas (and flavours) long before it’s properly ripe. This means less scrupulous growers could push the yields, pick early and hit the market very early – the result being upfront wines that have lots to shout about, at first, but won’t feel complete and will fall away quickly. There are plenty of winemaking tricks to help smooth edges, to neutralise aggressive acidity and to eke some more charm, but you can tell the difference between wines that have been overly interfered with and those where a grower and winemaker have taken their time. As for any wine, you do get what you pay for!
We all think we know Sauvignon but there is always something to surprise you. It must be the most accessible varietal, a gateway to the wider world of wine and for that we should be most grateful.
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