Tanners’ Burgundy 2022 En Primeur campaign is upon us, and while I don’t expect to see another rendition of “best-ever vintage” from many quarters, I wonder how much more anyone could demand of a region and its twelve-month journey around the sun. The knowing looks, quiet confidence and obvious bubbling pride shown by our growers tells me to trust my judgment on this one.
Twenty-two was a warm (sometimes hot), very dry summer for much of Europe and this strip of prized vineyard in the Centre-East of France was no different. The fruit was ripe and with a few isolated wines aside, alcohol levels generally hit the spot of 12.5-13.5%. Drought was a concern, and it is becoming a mounting problem with each summer, but rain fell at the right time to give respite and to help avoid the concentrated effect that is a mark of the (excellent) 2020 vintage, and it contributed to a natural freshness in most wines we tasted.
The wines from all sub-regions show great balance and transparency, demonstrating their respective terroirs (the alchemy of site, soil, climate and grape variety) wonderfully: the whites generally feel restrained and pure, not overtly citrusy, and rarely exotic; Chablis is a richer vintage but there is dazzling energy in the best examples; Mâcons are generous but show an amazing vitality and freshness; reds from the southern Côte de Beaune have a pleasing crunch and a mix of cherry and red fruit; the reds of the northern Côte de Nuits have a typically richer, darker tone but are uncannily easy-going and supple. This is an easy vintage to love, with wines that will drink well on release and plenty that will cellar well. I agree wholeheartedly with the great Ghislaine Barthod who compares 2022 with the perma-charming 2017s and a little of the richness of the disarming 2019s.
We have suffered with a run of small harvests in recent years, and it has made many of our favourite villages hard to find, while prices have crept up. I am pleased to report that 2022 is a return to more normal levels, certainly after the meagre 2021 vintage. However, Burgundy will always be a patchwork of vineyards and these annual releases reflect a snapshot of a grower and a year. If you have your favourites, you will already know that you shouldn’t hesitate, and if you are new to Burgundy and buying wines ‘En Primeur’ then I cannot recommend 2022 highly enough: there is something for everyone and it is a perfect vintage to learn about the various villages and sub-regions.
En Primeur is a system where you buy wine while it is still lying abroad. It is often your best chance to secure certain wines and sometimes the only opportunity to do so, and it tends to represent a saving versus the price you see on the shelf – if the wine even makes it to the shelf! You pay for the wine upfront, and then the Duty and VAT once the wine is shipped, or you can leave the wine in storage, under bond, and defer the taxes until you wish to take delivery of your bottles in the future. We will be very happy to talk you through the wines and your options – you can call us on 01743 234455 or email sales@tanners-wines.co.uk