Gone are days when Sherry was associated with Miss Marple and village gossip, the world of Sherry is bursting with flavour and varying styles. But even so, it can be hard to shake the cloak of days gone by. There are some drinks that could be labelled as an ‘acquired taste’ and Sherry is one such. Perhaps you’re already a Sherry lover and you know your Manzanillas from your Olorosos. But what if you don’t? Perhaps you're “once bitten twice as shy” after a previous tasting which has tainted your perception. Or maybe you just don’t know where to start, what does Fino mean and what on earth do you pair with each style?
Offering a breadth of styles, aromas and flavours, it’s far from being just a fireside tipple. In fact, the various styles offer a perfect excuse to grab some glasses and go on a tasting tour all year long. The different styles make beautiful partners for food which will elevate your dishes and snacks to another level.
The world of Sherry is truly wonderful, but it can also be technical so without boring you with technical details, let’s explore the amazing world of Sherry.
What is Sherry?
Sherry is a fortified wine. All Sherry starts as a base wine, but then alcohol is added to it, during or after fermentation. The grape-based spirit that is added to fortify the base wine is a hefty 95% abv so not much is needed!
Typically, Sherry is from the Jerez region of Andalucia in southern Spain.
The ageing process is a crucial part of Sherry production, and all Sherry must be aged for a minimum of 2 years. There are three key towns which are well-known for ageing the wines in buildings known as Bodegas. These towns: Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María, together form the Sherry Triangle where all Sherry must be produced.
Which grapes are used?
The core grape variety is Palomino Fino (used for most Sherry production), Pedro Ximénez (used for sweet wines and blended with drier styles to make them sweeter) and Muscat aka Moscatel (a very aromatic grape).
What are the key types of Sherry?
All Sherry producers will decide what type of Sherry they want to produce. The two key types are: biological aged and oxidatively aged sherries and also those that fall in between.
Biologically aged sherries are fortified to around 15% abv and this strength is ideal for a layer of yeast, known as flor, to develop. It’s this layer that contributes to the typical tangy, bready notes found in biologically aged sherries.
Oxidatively aged sherries will be fortified to around 17% abv and at this strength the layer of flor will die, leaving the wine exposed to oxygen which helps contribute to the traditional nuttier character of this type.
Some sherries fall in between these two styles and start off biologically then after the flor dies, the wine ages oxidatively.
How is it made?
Sherry must be aged in large 600 litre oak barrels called butts. The key to Sherry production is the Solera system. Without going into technical detail, the best way to think of the Solera system is as a way of blending, or fractional blending, using a stack of barrels where the oldest wines are on the bottom layer, the next oldest in the row above and so on. When wine is removed from the bottom layer for bottling the cask is refilled with wine from the layer above which is in turn refilled from the one above that accordingly up the stack.
What styles of Sherry can be made?
Sherry is superbly broad, offering dry to naturally sweet and sweetened styles, as well as everything in between. There is a style to suit all preferences. Depending on how a sherry has been aged, either biologically, oxidatively or a mixture of both, will help give you an indication of what aromas and flavours to expect in each style.
What are the dry styles of Sherry?
Fino & Manzanilla: These are typically dry and light in style with a pale colour and will have undergone biological ageing. To be a Manzanilla wine, it must be aged in Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
Best-served chilled, a Fino or Manzanilla makes for a great pre- or post-meal tipple. They are a sharing platters best friend, making an ideal glass to accompany a sumptuous selection of salted almonds, green olives, Croquetas de Jamón and homemade tortilla.
Try the quality and value found in Tanners Fino and Tanners Mariscal Manzanilla.
Amontillado: This style starts as a Fino (biologically aged) but is then refortified leading to a higher abv. This refortification kills the layer of flor and allows the wine to become exposed to oxygen (oxidative ageing) which enhances the aromas and flavours of the resulting wine. Typically amber in colour, this style is well-loved for the blend of flavours found in Fino styles, as well as the nuttier, more caramel-like aromas and flavours.
This is a great food partner. Try Tanners A Blend of Amontillado with a variety of dishes from Spanish albondigas to teriyaki chicken.
Palo Cortado: This style is a bit of a hybrid, often noted for its aromatic similarities to Amontillado, but with the fullness and richer body of an Oloroso.
Although it may be a rarer gem in the world of Sherry, it makes for a wonderful food match. Try a glass of Leonor Palo Cortado de Jerez 12 Años Sherry, Gonzalez Byass with game pâtés or even a slice of gala pie.
Oloroso: A key tip for remembering the character of this Sherry is that oloroso is oxidatively aged. This type of ageing gives the Sherry a darker colour and fuller body. The exposure to oxygen develops aromas and flavours such as toffee, caramel, crushed walnuts and hints of soft baking spices.
Perk up a wild mushroom risotto with a glass of Alfonso Oloroso Seco de Jerez Sherry, Gonzalez Byass, delicious!
What are the naturally sweet styles?
These wines will all have undergone oxidative ageing, leading to richer flavours and darker hues. Whilst enjoyed on their own for their luscious character, they are used as sweetening agents by blending with other styles of sherry.
Pedro Ximénez (often called PX): Sumptuous, luscious and oh so-sweet, this is the go-to Sherry for those looking for a sweet style. Made through oxidative ageing, this Sherry offers aromas and flavours of dried raisins, cooked figs and sprinkled with hints of coffee, it’s a real treat.
Superb on its own as a post-meal tipple (or two), why not make it dessert by pouring a hearty measure over vanilla ice cream. A Tanners favourite amongst staff and customers is Triana Pedro Ximénez Sherry, Jerez, Bodegas Hidalgo.
Moscatel: A glass of Moscatel makes for the perfect dessert alternative. With typical aromas of orange blossom and leading into a honeyed palate with flavours of dried citrus peel and raisins, it really is a mouth-watering sherry.
Serve this slightly chilled alongside a creamy tropical fruit cake or a simple zabaglione.
What are the sweetened styles?
A sweetened style of Sherry will have undergone biological and/or oxidative ageing but will be topped up with a sweeter sherry.
Cream: A staple at Christmas, cream Sherry has undergone oxidative ageing but has then had PX added which boosts its sweetness. Leading to delicious warm caramel, toffee and soft spice notes, a cream Sherry should never be underestimated. It’ll bring a smile to anyone’s face who tries it.
Pair a glass of Tanners Cream Sherry with baklava – an indulgent treat!
Medium: Traditionally, a medium sherry will have experienced biological and oxidative ageing and then had a good splash of PX to give it a slightly sweeter edge (think of Amontillado but slightly more complex and brushed with sweetness).
This will work wonderfully with a good chunk of cheddar cheese.
Pale Cream: This style of Sherry will have experienced a period of biological ageing (think Fino and Manzanilla) but will then be slightly sweetened.
You can match Heredad de Hidalgo Pale Cream Sherry with blue cheese for a mouth-watering sweet and salty flavour combination.
Whether you’re a fan or not, the breadth of styles and the sheer process undertaken highlight that Sherry is truly special. It’s created with vision, dedicated skill and with a lot of patience. So, whilst it may not be everyone’s tipple of choice, it has certainly dusted off the perceived ideas that it’s a drink for a certain generation. A tantalising food partner, explore Sherry with a variety of dishes and unlock sumptuous pairings that you may not have considered before. Go on, grab a glass and indulge….
