An immersive and intensive week with the Rioja Wine Academy has reignited Private Sales Director Robert Boutflower’s passion for this remarkable Spanish wine region.
It had been some time since my last visit to Rioja, so when the Consejo Regulador (Rioja’s governing body) extended an invitation to attend a ‘Rioja Camp’ in Logroño, I couldn’t resist. A chance to visit numerous wineries, do speed tasting sessions in each of the three sub-regions of Alta, Alavesa and Oriental, and share opinions with 24 international comrades was not to be missed.
My views crystallised over four pretty intensive days, as to the future pathway I think we will see from the region. Historically, in the days before Tanners, I was a Spanish specialist; I know the area, and many of the bodegas. My trips were frequent in the late nineties. However, I haven’t been back since 2017, so there was much to take in.
There had been a few mutterings before I got there. “Rioja is in trouble,” I heard, “too much wine, not enough sales” and indeed one of the saddest sights is the Berberana building on the Haro-Logroño road looking desolate and neglected. Once a powerhouse brand in the UK, it has vanished from the market. But as for the 170 wines I tried and tested over the week, in the main they were cleaner, fresher and more diverse than last time.
What’s the change? The historic houses, those with the recognisable names, are all making more attractive wines than before, with fruit character taking over from the old ‘oak-dominated’ style. Nearly everybody has embraced the idea (not especially new) that the point of difference is the sense of place in the wine, not the Crianza/Reserva recipe that used to be churned out. Bodegas are searching for their USP. The Consejo seems to be helping; the new classifications of Viñedo Singular for a single vineyard, and Vinos de Pueblo to mimic the ‘village wine’ identity we now see worldwide are being championed by the governing body. This big idea has also been welcomed by the smaller, less wealthy bodegas who see it as a boost to their experimental, edgier attempts to break out from the shadow cast by the big boys.
This in turn has grown into the pursuit of ‘the different’. Suddenly, possibly helped by warmer times, there are ‘new’ exploitations of vineyards (often old vines that were previously neglected) grown in areas you wouldn’t have recognised even ten years ago. Garnacha, a staple of the warmer Rioja Oriental, is suddenly all over the Rioja Alta, bottled as a young, fruity, single variety with great freshness. Graciano, originally used sparingly in the Reserva blends for its acidity and ageing qualities, is being shown in its entirety with subtle, new French oak (not a scrap of American!), while ancient variety Maturana Tinta, suspiciously similar to Cabernet Franc, has been resurrected in all corners.
White wines are making a comeback too, with everyone eager to showcase their ‘barrel-fermented’ whites. These include traditional Viura, the newly discovered Tempranillo Blanco, and the recently approved Sauvignon Blanc – thankfully featuring as a blending component rather than dominating the category. All benefit from the understanding of location and its impact on what the French call ‘terroir’, for example, replanting of parts of the higher vineyards where cool breezes and altitude preserve the freshness.
It is this freshness, along with purity of flavour, that is driving the improvements. Riojan wines have much more balanced flavours, better acidity and less reliance on oak to make their point – making them all the more enjoyable.
Memorable moments from the trip, from a personal point of view include new discovery, Bodegas UKAN. A catchy name for a progressive boutique winery producing a pair of sublime reds in the style of a Bordeaux property, almost ‘garagiste’. For more on this exciting new addition, see page 6.
A visit to Bodegas Tobelos (who supply us with a delicious Crianza and have for many years) was also encouraging.
Perched in the hills above Haro in the village of Briñas, recently-arrived winemaker Adriana Laucirica has moved the dial forward, producing several delicious ‘single vineyard’ wines, one from the distinctly cool village of Salinillas de Buradón, which is Rioja’s most northerly vineyard, another from historic Los Quiñiones, near San Vicente de la Sonsierra. Both are priced at the ‘premium end’, but a pure Garnacha (yes, the grape of the moment) made one-part in oak and three-parts in concrete eggs was fresh and vibrant, a really friendly glass of red at a great price. Watch this space for our next shipment.
The wines from Bagordi’s young and dynamic winemaker, Basilio Berisa, also caught the eye. A light touch has always been Basilio’s way and his whites are fresh and well-defined, creamy rather than oaky when he uses barrels. Bagordi whites feature a blend of Sauvignon and Garnacha Blanca too, a point of difference from the ubiquitous Viura. Equally impressive was his Maturana Tinto, a delightfully aromatic new arrival on the Riojan scene which was much in evidence at tastings. It is an historic variety that had fallen out of favour, but new techniques ensure a juicy, balanced wine, particularly the red variety which has a purity of flavour not unlike a Cabernet Franc from the Napa.
Finally, mention of two of the grandest names in Rioja still producing classic, traditional and yet completely fabulous, ‘old fashioned’ Rioja. Marqués de Murrieta have totally rebuilt their winery but, unlike others using top modern architects, they simply hired in top Galician stonemasons to reshape and extend their buildings. Much more user-friendly, their wines have stepped up in quality and are, for me, at the top of the tree. Not far behind is Haro stalwart, La Rioja Alta SA. Their Gran Reserva 2016, for the sheer breadth of depth, shape and complexity, I wrote simply; ‘underpriced against the world’s best.’ There’s much in Rioja to be happy about.
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