Spain En Primeur

Koldo Eguren makes his fantastic wines in a tiny space, using wonderful fruit from old vine parcels dotted around the historic vineyard plots of Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa. The structure, texture and balance is exemplary for a relatively new kid on the block. This is sensual, but serious Rioja with a hint of oak that will keep it for ten years, although you can start drinking it at five.

Suave, soft and silky, this is modern Rioja with the emphasis on bright fresh raspberry fruit. It’s made as the ‘second wine’ of UKAN a bit like a Bordeaux château uses its secondary grapes, but still has a real Riojan character. Delicious now but will keep for a couple of years too. Great value for the quality.

The 2020 Pintia demonstrates the attention to detail of Vega Sicilia, where the power of the vintage needed to be respected to produce a viable wine. A pre harvest heatwave meant they had to pick quickly and as per recent releases, the aim was to manage a softer vinification with less oak and lower levels of toasting, and they employed clay amphorae too. This is notably concentrated, the tannins are ripe and plump, and the fruit is bold - dark and rich with a touch of bitter dark chocolate, earth, and dried herbs. Impressive on all fronts.

Like Rioja, Ribera del Duero enjoyed a cooler than normal growing season after a cool start that saw some late winter snow and only a little frost. This is a beautiful release that offers an admirable degree of subtlety, offering up a wonderfully juicy mouthful, fine chalky tannins and well-developed dark fruits laced with violets. Powerful of course, but this also shows great freshness and elegance, and it will age very well over the coming 15 -20 years. 96/100 from Luis Gutierrez, 18/20 on JancisRobinson.com

The Unico RE is always a blend of three exceptional vintages, and the 2025 release is made up of 2011, 2012, and 2013. 2012 is the powerhouse while the 2013 bring super freshness, and the 2011 more of a developed quality. Fully nine years in a mix of barrel, foudres, and bottle. Graphite, truffle, tobacco, sapidity and tannin that is pure silk. It offers great balance and depth. Multi-layered aromas and a balance between smooth tannin and a clearly tertiary flavour profile with dried herbs and lots of cedar. 2024-2045 18/20 Ferran Centelles for JancisRobinson.com It has a very harmonious and subtle nose, and the wine shows extra complexity and elegance. It has the Único nose with more nuance and subtleness, but what I liked the most was the silky texture and the elegance of the tannins, as usual combining more developed characteristics with elegance and freshness. This is another stellar release of their non-vintage classical blend, slowly going back to the style of yesteryear. 98/100 Luis Gutierrez (Wine Advocate)

Unico is one of the world’s legendary wines, this IS Vega Sicilia, and it is aged for ten years before release – five years in barrels, foudres and tank, and five years in bottle. Cedar, graphite and a fine touch of earthiness. It is fluid, with melted tannins and very smooth. Certainly, a year of great delicacy and with the barrel less marked. It is totally multi-layered and you can already perceive some tertiary notes that are complemented by a touch of pine-forest freshness at the back of the palate. Great work; it is a totally overwhelming wine. 2024-2060 19/20 Ferran Centelles for JancisRobinson.com It's a ripe and concentrated vintage, classical modern Vega Sicilia nose, expressive, aromatic and open, with notes of dark cherries, spice, cigar box and a medium to full-bodied palate with abundant fine-grained tannins, with good balance and the rustic elegance of the best Ribera del Duero. 97/100 Luis Gutierrez (Wine Advocate)

The 2020 vintage saw plentiful rains ahead of harvest which had a cooling effect on the nature of the final wine, bringing alcohol down a touch to 14% and yet the wine remains structured and intense albeit with more elegance than is typical. The 5° refers to the fact that Valbuena 5° is aged for five years, a mix of tank and oak vessels of various sizes including 8,500 and 21,000L monsters! Tempranillo with a drop of Merlot, on the full side of medium-bodied, and boasting a classically expressive ripe black fruits, notes of plum and cherry, pressed dark flowers, spicy oak, vanilla and espresso. There is serious density here and it will demand time. 95/20 from Luis Gutierrez, 17.5/20 on JancisRobinson.com;

The 2020 Pintia demonstrates the attention to detail of Vega Sicilia, where the power of the vintage needed to be respected to produce a viable wine. A pre harvest heatwave meant they had to pick quickly and as per recent releases, the aim was to manage a softer vinification with less oak and lower levels of toasting, and they employed clay amphorae too. This is notably concentrated, the tannins are ripe and plump, and the fruit is bold – dark and rich with a touch of bitter dark chocolate, earth, and dried herbs. Impressive on all fronts. Drink 2026-2035+ 94/100 from Luis Gutierrez, and 17/20 on JancisRobinson.com

A blend of over 60 different plots lending great complexity to this iconic wine. An abundant year, meant plenty of green pruning to maintain the depth and comcentration here.