Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer, grand cru Kessler, Alsace 2021

Domaines Schlumberger has an enormous holding of 140 hectares in Guebwiller in southern Alsace. They are the largest Grands Crus producer in Alsace with half of their vineyards in four grand crus: Kessler, Kitterlé, Saering and Spiegel, while their classic range ‘Les Princes Abbés’ pays homage to the Princes Abbots who tended the vineyards for over 1000 years. Steeply terraced sites of up to 50 degrees benefit from triple expositions facing south-east, south and south-west increasing complexity as well as ripeness in the grapes. The sandy terraced soils are contained by 50km of dry sandstone walls which are maintained by a team of masons. Horse drawn ploughing improves the soil structure, minimises water run-off, builds up deeper water reserves and increases vine vigour. While on more gentle slopes the use of sheep has helped to decrease the use of herbicides and tractors in some vineyards. Forests overlook all hillsides, increasing the biodiversity in their vineyards, reducing pest pressures, regulating water and minimising hydric stress in the vines.

They’ve innovated with the use of felt ground cover membranes in their vineyards and have been campaigning hard to adopt new technology like drones for vine treatments (should permission finally be granted) to minimise soil compaction, fuel use and drift which further protects workers from exposure to products. Production methods combine traditional with modern, the new working alongside the best of the old. In a region where quality is utterly dependable, Schlumberger stands as a benchmark. No expense is spared in their pursuit of excellence and the resulting wines are very fine.