Vieux Pineau des Charentes, Château de Montifaud, 17% vol

They specialise in the chalky Petite Champagne sub-region which tends to produce the most floral, feminine cognacs. Of their 130 ha of vines, 120 ha are in Petite Champagne and Ugni Blanc is the predominant grape grown with only 3 ha split between Colombard, Folle Blanche, Cabernet and Merlot. They believe that harvesting healthy grapes is fundamental to the floral quality of fine cognacs together with soft pressing and temperature control. Distillation takes place – artisan-style – in three much loved pot stills with Laurent including more lees (sediment) than most producers to accentuate the suppleness of his cognacs. When bringing the spirit down to drinking proof, he’s obsessed with adding the distilled water extremely slowly, even dripping it in to avoid any soapy flavours. The young spirit matures in Limousin oak casks where it continues to lose alcohol due to evaporation: the ‘angels’ share’. A family tradition is to set aside newly distilled spirit when each new generation starts. This has led to a wonderful stock of old cognac and an enviable collection of certified vintage cognacs. The oldest barrels reside behind locked gates in a dark, atmospheric ‘paradis’. The Vallet family also produce the local apéritif, Pineau des Charentes, as well as grape-based Osmoz gin.