Les Cyprès Rosé, Méditerranée, Pey Blanc 2023

The owner and winemaker is Gabriel (Gaby) Giusiano who took over from his father Jean-Claude in 2004. It was Gabriel’s grandfather, Matteo, who founded the estate back in 1930 after migrating from Italy. Up until Gabriel took over, their grapes went to the local co-operative but he didn’t want to put all the work into the vineyards to then lose track of them after harvesting. So a cellar was built, he learnt about vinification in Orange and the vineyards were renovated. The first vintage of his own production was in 2004. Now he produces 150,000 bottles of wine annually, 70% per cent of which is rosé with 20% red and 10% white. Local demand accounts for 80% of his total production and, indeed, you are very likely to see his wines in the best bars and restaurants in nearby Aix. Grape varieties are mainly Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault for the rosés and reds with Rolle, Ugni Blanc and Clairette for the whites. “For the rosé I work on the lightness of colour in quite a modern style and très clean,” Gabriel told us, then went on to describe how they harvest at night, vibrate the berries off the stalks and use 50% free-run juice for the rosé. A period on the lees also helps to give more citrus aromas and a creamy texture. In summary, his is a lovely range of wines from a true enthusiast.