Moulin-à-Vent, Aux Caves, Louis Boillot 2021

In fact, he shares cellars with his wife, Ghislaine Barthod. With their son, Clément, recently taking over the winemaking, these domaines will increasingly be viewed as one. They also have the same team working the vineyards and much of the magic appears in the wines of both domaines. The spread-out nature of the Boillot vineyards is down to French inheritance laws and the constant fragmentation of family holdings. Louis is from Gevrey-Chambertin – and his brother runs Domaine Lucien Boillot there – whilst the family originates around Volnay in the Côte de Beaune which explains his 2.5 ha of Volnay and Pommard vines. The domaine totals 7 ha of vines: over 3 ha are in Gevrey-Chambertin with 1.5 ha split between Fixin, Chambolle-Musigny, Nuits-Saint-Georges and Côte de Nuits Villages. Even on the trickier soils of Volnay and Pommard – known for giving wilder tannins – his wines share much of the suppleness, pure fruit and ripe tannins of the Barthod Chambolle-Musignys. In recent years Louis, like many Burgundians, has looked south to Beaujolais, and in his case Moulin-à-Vent, where he makes Gamay that is very much in the mould of a Côte d’Or Pinot Noir.