Rully Blanc, La Chaponnière, P & L Borgeot 2022 En Primeur - Case of 6

Run by two brothers, Laurent and Pascal, the cellars are in the village of Remigny, just across the winding River Dheune which divides the Côte de Beaune from the Côte Chalonnaise. Domaine Borgeot is one of only four growers in the village. The estate was founded by the brothers’ grandfather in 1919 and now stands at 20 ha, stretching from Bouzeron in the Côte Chalonnaise up to Puligny-Montrachet. Grapes from Laurent’s wife, Sandra, who has 2.5 ha of her own vines, also go into the domaine’s wines. Production is split 60:40 in favour of white and they have a handy 3 ha holding in Santenay including premier crus, Les Gravières and Les Beauregards. The windmill which looks out over Les Gravières features on their labels. Synthetic treatments of the vines are minimised, with Laurent describing the domaine as ‘bio-raisonnée’, a sort of halfway house between conventional and organic cultivation. A tasting with Laurent is frenetic but fun, and with Julia, Pascal's daughter, quiet but informative. Either way, there is usually a steady stream of visitors, the even local gendarme might say 'hello'.