Saint-Romain Blanc, Les Cinq Climats, Alain Gras 2022

Alain Gras wines are listed in most of France’s Michelin three-star restaurants which is down to his own sheer determination, and his friendship with the late master chef, Bernard Loiseau, of Saulieu. The domaine stands at 15 ha, the vast majority of which is at 1,300 feet above sea level in Saint-Romain. He also has vines at 1,050 feet in Auxey-Duresses and in Les Tillets, one of Meursault’s highest lieux-dits. Hot vintages favour these cooler sites and Alain admits that global warming is actually helping him! Alain is also very keen on la chasse to the point that making an appointment with him before nightfall in the shooting season is difficult; after all, the woodcock may be in. Visiting in daylight is therefore a rare treat for us with its chance of seeing Mont Blanc from his front door. One tastes with character-filled photographs of his grandfather, who lived to the age of 92, and his centenarian great-grandfather looking on. All that fresh air and Saint-Romain wine must have stood them well. Alain took over the running of the domaine in 1979 and has recently been joined by his son Arthur.