Buisson-Charles

One gets the impression that Patrick Essa likes to ruffle a few feathers, and why not!

He believes passionately that too much Meursault is harvested too early and is too lemony as a result. His picking dates are invariably later than most of his peers and therefore Buisson-Charles wines are more akin to the richer styles of Meursault of yore. In our book there is room for both styles. The domaine extends to 6.5 ha of vines, many of them old, which are worked organically but the estate is not certified, giving them scope to switch to conventional treatments in a disastrous year. The wines spend 12 months in oak, with just enough new wood to complement the fruit. The resulting wines are incredibly concentrated and can age remarkably well. Patrick is married to Catherine Buisson, for a long time combining his winemaking with his job as a sports teacher but has now swapped the touch lines for the cellar. Catherine’s father Michel used to run the domaine and in turn they have been joined by their son Louis. The family has been in Meursault for more than seven generations and occupy an old house in the village, the narrow courtyard being flower-filled in summer. Recent success has enabled them to buy the neighbouring house and knock its cellars into their own.

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