With the Barbie film breaking box office records, the world has become a bit more pink of late! Okay, it may have lost out to Oppenheimer and others in this year's award ceremonies, but, says Simon Jones, underestimate the power of pink at your peril!
The days when rosés were an afterthought or only for summer are long gone and today there are some seriously good examples across the vinous globe. The recent trend has been to buy based on colour, or lack of it, which can be a shame as this has led to many innocuous pale examples with little depth or character. More interesting wines can be found when the winemaker increases the time the juice has in contact with the skins before fermentation, giving more body, flavour and, naturally, more colour.
Characterful Wines
Across the Massaya winery in the Lebanon the Ghosn brothers, Sami and Ramzi, produce an excellent, characterful rosé from Cinsault grapes. Fermented in stainless steel to preserve freshness, it has delicate redcurrant fruit with citrus notes and a long finish. The Spanish too traditionally favoured a darker rosé (or rosado in this part of the world), our new arrival from Castillo de Monjardin in Navarra is made mainly from Garnacha (aka Grenache) harvested at night to keep everything cool and fresh, it has a wonderfully berry-scented mouthful. Further west, in the Rioja Oriental (formerly Rioja Baja) region, Bagordi are doing similar things with organically grown Garnacha producing a dry, crisp rose, full of summer pudding fruit, following a long cool maceration.
Across the border in France, the Joyeux family, at Domaine de la Cendrillon, also make a super, organically grown rosé from Cinsault and Grenache (Noir and Gris) in the Corbières region. It has an attractive hibiscus-scented aroma and a crisp, citrus finish which is perfect with seafood. We mustn't forget a shout-out for our own Tanners French Rosé made at Domaine de Pellehaut in the Gers region, from a great mix of the regions different varieties including Merlot, Cabernet, Tannat, Syrah, Malbec, and Pinot Noir, which offers great character at an excellent price.
Lighten Up
For those who are looking for a paler rosé, don't worry we have a raft of those too, including the uber-fashionable Piquepoul rosé, from vineyards near to Béziers, which is a bargain and great with seafood or even Asian cuisine. If Provence is your thing, then Pey Blanc's No I Rose is amazing value compared to many from this lauded region; floral, citrus and packed with red fruit flavour, it is the epitome of summer sipping. If you fancy a taste of Provence without the price tag, their Cyprès Rosé, grown in vineyards slightly further afield, provides much of the pleasure and character at an accessible price.
Last but by no means least, don't forget the fizz! Can-Xa Rosé Cava comes from the Penedès region of north-east Spain and is made from 100% Pinot Noir. It spends just under a year on lees to retain its vibrant fruit, with plenty of strawberry and raspberry character before a fresh, clean finish, it is great on its own or with a BBQ. If you want to push the boat out, then there is always the iconic Laurent Perrier Rosé Champagne Brut, which by contrast spends an impressive five years ageing that delivers a fine, complex, elegant wine with red cherry fruit and a hint of structure providing body to the finish.
Whichever you choose, we hope you enjoy channelling your inner Barbie or Ken this summer!
