Germany 2023 En Primeur
2023 was another challenging vintage for Germany. A mild winter with welcome rains helped replenish water levels after the devilishly hot and dry summer of 2022. A cool start to spring delayed flowering and good weather arrived to super-charge growth in the vineyard. Teams understood the need to manage canopies and focus the vines energy whilst also keeping an eye on rapidly developing buds which threatened to be too tightly packed - a potential hazard if things were to become too humid. Those decisions were vindicated as the Mosel had more rain in May and the Nahe had a sticky August. A glorious September meant a pretty quick harvest and this brief overview makes light the efforts required in the vineyard throughout the summer. Christoph Schaefer commented: 2023 is a really Kabinett vintage (for us). We produced a few Spätlese and barely any Auslese”. While Dönnhoff were “delighted with this crystal-clear and wonderfully harmonious vintage”. There is obvious quality here from two of the great German estates, and we will add to this list as our allocations become clear.Please bear in mind the awful late spring frosts of 2024 will likely mean severe reductions in volumes and more limited releases next year.
Willi Schaefer
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Still White | Case of 6
Still White
A great nose which races out of the glass with a soft herby/hedgerow blossom quality, confit lemon, a blue note, oranges and peaches? a cloud-like 'fluffiness' we've mentioned before. The palate has a silky, lightly creamy 'airy' feel, a touch of spritz, and stimulating slatey and salty grip. Dynamic, bright and tangy throughout with a balanced sweetness and moreish flavours of citrus and pear.
Case of 6
£120.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
A deeper nose than the Kabinett, and markedly perfumed - almost Gewürz-like roses, fragrant peach, and opal fruits! There is a lovely, sweet attack balanced with lots of extract, an intense salty/talc (and love hearts) chalky hit. Texturally silky and pillowy, very fragrant throughout with super lift, and like the Kabinett, tangy, tantalising, and fully of energy - and so easy with it. Dreamy stuff!
Case of 6
£138.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
The appealing character of the Schaefer 2023s is here too, but with a wilder, earthier core, more power, and more compact. Candied citrus, complex herb and blossom notes, yellows and orange exotic fruits, all with terrific freshness and great definition. The palate feels especially animated, combining an irresistible creaminess, lashings of soft fruits, lively citrus, and a lip-smacking spicy and mineral finish adding to a sense of precision. This ticks a lot of boxes.
Case of 6
£138.00 /
Dönnhoff
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Still White | Case of 6
Still White
A great introduction to how beautifully balanced the wines of Dönnhoff are, and a super example of accessible dry Riesling. A hint of flint or smoke, delicate peach, pear and apple fruit, with a streak of zesty lemon citrus. Nicely rounded and refreshing, and one to enjoy on release.
Case of 6
£69.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
Tonschiefer translates as 'clay slate' and is a perpetual favourite here. Based on fruit from the Oberhäuser Leistenberg, which lends a mineral drive, this shows a mix of lemon and grapefruit citrus, subtle white peach and apple, and a good dose of lightly spicy flowers. It's an energetic and sometimes wild Riesling that drinks right of the bat
Case of 6
£87.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
Klamm has been a huge hit since we first listed it with the 2020 release (it debuted in 2017), named after an old word that describes the deep craggy cliffs above this very steep site situated next to the Hermannshöhle. Lemon citrus, peach and apple morph into more tropical fruits; the palate shows superb concentration - richness and a pithy bitterness, lots of mineral grip, and a long, tantalising finish.
Case of 6
£90.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
The slatey mineral character of the site shines through here, overlaid with a mix of apple, pear, and apricot fruit, notes of ginger and sweet spicy flowers. There is a distinctly pure lemon citrus quality and an inherent raciness which goes hand in hand with a drier than usual character, giving great lift and elegance.
Case of 6
£90.00 / -
Still White | Case of 3
Still White
Tonschiefer translates as 'clay slate' and is a perpetual favourite here. Based on fruit from the Oberhäuser Leistenberg, which lends a mineral drive, this shows a mix of lemon and grapefruit citrus, subtle white peach and apple, and a good dose of lightly spicy flowers. It's an energetic and sometimes wild Riesling that drinks right of the bat!
Case of 3
£108.00 / -
Still White | Case of 3
Still White
The slatey mineral character of the site shines through here, overlaid with a mix of apple, pear, and apricot fruit, notes of ginger and sweet spicy flowers. There is a distinctly pure lemon citrus quality and an inherent raciness which goes hand in hand with a drier than usual character, giving great lift and elegance.
Case of 3
£111.00 / -
Sweet | Single bottle
Sweet
A very limited release goldkapsel brimming with energy and highly expressive, boasting pure notes of juicy sweet nectarine, pineapple, mint, strawberry, cherry and may blossom. The palate offers up sticky mango and passionfruit, a spicy minerality, great concentration and intensity, and a lip-smacking citrusy and stony finish.
Single bottle
£121.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
The oldest recorded vineyards in the Nahe are found here, a site of slate and sandstone, which produces magnificent, opulent and lively spätlesen. Soft exotic fruits, cherry juice, hedgerow blossoms and wet stone. This is a flattering, creamy sweet but perfectly bright and lively Riesling with a morish salinity.
Case of 6
£126.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
The Path to Hell', a reference to the steepness of this site and its red sandstone soils. There is an inherent spicy mineral character here which orbits an intense, vivid lemon citrus base. There is richness here but the whole is tightly wound, very 'together', and it feels utterly sophisticated and wonderfully balanced.
Case of 6
£132.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
A very special, tiny monopole site of just 1.1ha, one of the jewels of the Dönnhoff estate. There is a palpable sense of underlying tension here, a very bright and finely spicy, salty mineral bite, and time brings out a medley of floral, citrus and stone fruit flavours. Honey and salt! Richness for sure but also almost crisp-dry, and long - the Brücke always maintains a piquancy and elevated acidity.
Case of 6
£168.00 / -
Still White | Case of 6
Still White
This Großes Gewächs comes from a rocky two-hectare parcel of the Höllenpfad's oldest vines (40+ years). The stony and spicy-mineral character of the broader site is here, but it is more focused, more detailed and overlaid with richer stone fruits and a more complex texture. The lemon citrus has a more concentrated, almost oily quality, the spice permeates all, and dazzlingly long finish resonates with zesty, salty, and stony flavours.
Case of 6
£258.00 / -
Sweet | Case of 6
Sweet
A very limited release goldkapsel brimming with energy and highly expressive, boasting pure notes of juicy sweet nectarine, pineapple, mint, strawberry, cherry and may blossom. The palate offers up sticky mango and passionfruit, a spicy minerality, great concentration and intensity, and a lip-smacking citrusy and stony finish.
Case of 6
£330.00 /